Many a for­eign­er has vis­it­ed Eng­land and found it an unex­pect­ed­ly sur­re­al place. Some of that effect has to do with encoun­ter­ing famil­iar icons — Big Ben, dou­ble-deck­er Routemas­ter bus­es, Mar­mite — in cold, damp real­i­ty. More of it may be induced by the coun­try’s simul­ta­ne­ous­ly thor­ough­go­ing cul­tures of nor­mal­i­ty and eccen­tric­i­ty, an end­less source of inspi­ra­tion for Mon­ty Python’s Fly­ing Cir­cus and much oth­er British com­e­dy since. Yet Eng­land came rel­a­tive­ly late to Sur­re­al­ism, or rather, Sur­re­al­ism came late to Eng­land. When the Inter­na­tion­al Sur­re­al­ist Exhi­bi­tion opened at the New Burling­ton Gal­leries behind Lon­don’s Roy­al Acad­e­my in the sum­mer of 1936, the Man­ches­ter Evening News decried it as “a trav­es­ty of every­thing that’s decent.” Nat­u­ral­ly, the show was a smash hit.

On dis­play was work by artists includ­ing Pablo Picas­so, René Magritte, Max Ernst, Alexan­der Calder, Gior­gio de Chiri­co, Mar­cel Duchamp, Alber­to Gia­comet­ti, Paul Klee, Man Ray, and Sal­vador Dalí, who turned up in per­son to deliv­er a lec­ture on “Authen­tic Para­noiac Phan­toms.” In order to “descend to the sub­con­scious” with a prop­er­ly Sur­re­al­ist lit­er­al­ism, he rent­ed a div­ing suit and hel­met from a local out­fit­ter for his appear­ance. (You can see an actu­al image from 1936 here.) “The div­ing suit had extreme­ly heavy lead shoes which I could bare­ly lift,” he writes in his auto­bi­og­ra­phy, as trans­lat­ed by Haakon Cheva­lier. “I there­fore had to walk very slow­ly, lean­ing on friends who helped to move me, as though I were com­plete­ly par­a­lyzed, and thus I appeared before the audi­ence hold­ing two lux­u­ri­ous white Russ­ian wolfhounds on a leash.”

Only after he’d been talk­ing for a few min­utes did Dalí real­ize that “it would be impos­si­ble for me to deliv­er my speech through the glass win­dow of my hel­met. More­over, I had been shut up in this thing for ten min­utes and became heat­ed from the exer­tions I had made in walk­ing across the stage to reach my chair, so that I was drip­ping with per­spi­ra­tion, and felt faint and on the point of suf­fo­cat­ing.” With the tech­ni­cian who’d screwed the hel­met on in the first place nowhere to be found, his wife Gala and friend Edward James worked des­per­ate­ly to free him, even­tu­al­ly tak­ing a ham­mer to the bolts. “At each blow I thought I would faint.” When Dalí final­ly emerged, the audi­ence, hav­ing assumed it had all been an act, “was impressed by my real­ly death­ly pal­lor, which con­sti­tut­ed the accu­rate gauge of that Dalin­ian dra­mat­ic ele­ment which nev­er fails to attend my most triv­ial acts and under­tak­ings.”

As uncom­pro­mis­ing­ly as they made their dec­la­ra­tions to change the world through sheer force of non­sense, the Sur­re­al­ists also under­stood that the show must go on. Dalí moved on to the visu­al por­tion of his lec­ture, pre­sent­ing slides out of order and, for the most part, upside down. This was just one of the attrac­tions with which the Inter­na­tion­al Sur­re­al­ist Exhi­bi­tion drew 30,000 vis­i­tors dur­ing its three-week run, and “had it not been for the gath­er­ing storm clouds of war in Europe,” writes the Guardian’s Joan­na Moor­head, “it might have gone on to achieve far more.” The old Eng­lish intol­er­ance for Gal­lic self-seri­ous­ness would also have made things dif­fi­cult for Sur­re­al­ism as the likes of Dalí, Duchamp, and André Bre­ton con­ceived it. Or per­haps the domes­tic vari­ety was sim­ply enough: as crit­ic and poet Her­bert Read puts it in the exhi­bi­tion’s cat­a­log, a nation that has pro­duced both William Blake and Lewis Car­roll is to the man­ner born.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

When The Sur­re­al­ists Expelled Sal­vador Dalí for “the Glo­ri­fi­ca­tion of Hit­ler­ian Fas­cism” (1934)

When Sal­vador Dali Met Sig­mund Freud, and Changed Freud’s Mind About Sur­re­al­ism (1938)

When Sal­vador Dalí Cre­at­ed a Sur­re­al­ist Fun­house at New York World’s Fair (1939)

When Sal­vador Dalí Dressed — and Angri­ly Demol­ished — a Depart­ment Store Win­dow in New York City (1939)

When Sal­vador Dalí Gave a Lec­ture at the Sor­bonne & Arrived in a Rolls Royce Full of Cau­li­flower (1955)

Sal­vador Dali Gets Sur­re­al with Mike Wal­lace (1958)

Based in Seoul, Col­in Marshall writes and broad­casts on cities, lan­guage, and cul­ture. He’s the author of the newslet­ter Books on Cities as well as the books 한국 요약 금지 (No Sum­ma­riz­ing Korea) and Kore­an Newtro. Fol­low him on the social net­work for­mer­ly known as Twit­ter at @colinmarshall.

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